Many DIY guides treat super glue and epoxy as interchangeable, but the two adhesives behave very differently. Both can form strong bonds, yet their chemistry, working time, and gap-filling ability vary widely. Picking the one that matches your piece and repair goals is the key to strength, appearance, and long-term durability.
Before you reach for the glue, run through this quick checklist:
Which adhesive types could work, epoxy, cyanoacrylate (super glue), or a reversible conservation-grade glue such as B-72?
How do they compare in bond strength, working time, clarity, gap-filling ability, and compatibility with your material (porcelain, stoneware, terra-cotta, resin, etc.)?
What long-term risks might each pose? Think yellowing, brittleness, toxicity, heat intolerance, or difficulty removing the join later.
Do you know the correct application method and cure conditions, mix ratio, clamp time, temperature, humidity, for the product you choose?
Taking a moment to answer these questions, especially whether a reversible mending adhesive is the wiser first step, helps protect both the structural integrity and the value of your piece
Let's break down the differences between super glue and epoxy adhesives:
About Epoxy 2-part Adhesive
Epoxy is usually our first choice for irreversible ceramic, porcelain, and modern Kintsugi repairs because it:
Fills gaps and voids. Its thicker body bridges small chips and uneven fracture lines.
Creates true structural strength. Our studio blend cures to 3600 PSI.
Mixes 1 : 1 resin + hardener. Many brands tint the components so you see a uniform “third” color when they’re fully blended, your visual cue that the chemistry is ready to work.
Offers multiple work times. From 5-minute dual-syringe kits to 24-hour bulk sets, you can match the open time to the size and complexity of the piece.
Comes in purpose-built formulas: mending, gap-filling, or clear protective coatings. (Here we’re talking strictly about mending epoxies.)
Cyanoacrylate (CA) is a single-component, water-thin adhesive that polymerizes in seconds when it meets moisture-laden air. Convenient, but note the trade-offs:
High tensile, low shear. It resists a straight pull but snaps under side stress.
Requires a perfect fit. Because CA forms only a microscopic glue line, shards must meet exactly; it cannot bridge gaps.
Performs best on non-porous materials. Porous clay bodies wick the glue away, leaving a weak bond.
Can discolor future restoration layers. Over time CA migrates and yellows under fillers or paints, telegraphing the repair line.
For heirlooms or pieces that will be over-painted, we generally avoid CA in favor of clear, non-yellowing epoxies or a reversible conservation adhesive.
Super glue
Super glue interacting with repair layers (e.g., paint)
Reversible Repairs: Why They Matter
In ceramic and sculpture restoration, reversibility is a key consideration. A reversible repair uses adhesives or methods that can be undone later without harming the original piece. This is especially important for valuable or historic items, allowing future restorers to remove or redo repairs if needed.
Note: This article, focusing on super glues (cyanoacrylates) and epoxies, addresses non-reversible repair options. Both create strong, permanent bonds that are difficult or impossible to reverse without damage.
At Lakeside Pottery Studio, we carefully assess each project to balance strength with the potential need for reversibility, preserving your piece’s integrity and future conservation options.
For a deeper dive into reversible versus non-reversible repair methods, see our detailed guide here:
1. Cementing + Gap Filling Mending epoxies don’t just bond, they bridge gaps. Their higher viscosity lets them fill small chips or uneven fracture lines that super glue cannot, creating both contact and structural bulk in a single step.
2-part even ratio mix
2. Epoxy Working Time: Quick-Set vs. Slow-Set Epoxies come with a range of working and curing times, from just a few minutes to several hours, depending on the formula and hardener chemistry. Choosing between a fast-setting or slow-setting epoxy depends on your project's complexity and the time needed for precise alignment.
Important: Holding pieces by hand while the epoxy cures is neither practical nor accurate. Even fast-set epoxies can drift out of place.
To help, we’ve created a tutorial showing simple techniques and tools for keeping broken segments securely in position during curing. Click here or on the image on the right to view
Mixing 2-part epoxy
Keeping pieces in place while waiting
When to Use Slow-setting Epoxy? For small repairs where parts can be quickly aligned and clamped, a 5-minute epoxy may be sufficient. However, for larger items, or repairs involving multiple breaks or wide surface areas, a slow-setting epoxy is recommended. These give you more time to spread the adhesive evenly and make accurate adjustments before it begins to harden.
In most cases, slow-curing epoxies provide a stronger, more durable bond, though some modern fast-set formulas now offer comparable strength for small-scale repairs.
Applying 2-part epoxy
Heat Resistance and High-Temperature Failure Super glue works up to about 175-195°F (80–90°C) before weakening. Some high-temp versions reach 250°F (120°C).
Standard epoxies handle 250-300°F (120–150°C) but soften above that.
High-temp epoxies withstand 400-500°F (200–260°C) continuously, with short bursts up to 550°F (288°C).
Cover full surface
Repair Line Thickness and Color Super glues create very thin, almost invisible repair lines. Epoxies, on the other hand, leave thicker lines and can vary in color, some are clear, while others yellow over time. When choosing an epoxy, consider the appearance carefully. If you plan to hide the repair with fillers, paints, or glazes, prioritize strength over color, since the repair line will be concealed.
Place and apply pressure
Note: Lakeside Pottery Studio uses a clear epoxy with 3,600 PSI strength (see link) for most repairs. Keep in mind that most clear epoxies will yellow over time when exposed to UV light, such as sunlight or fluorescent lighting, which can affect the appearance of any over-painted restoration.
Removing epoxy later
Cleaning Avoid wiping excess epoxy while it’s still wet, as this can cause the repair to shift and smear over a larger area. Instead, allow the epoxy to partially cure to ensure a stable bond, then carefully remove the excess with a sharp blade (see tutorial). Be especially cautious on soft ceramics like terra cotta or stone, removing cured epoxy can easily scratch or damage these surfaces.
Conclusion At Lakeside Pottery Studio, we prioritize durability, longevity, and the aesthetic quality of every ceramic and sculpture repair. For this reason, we favor high-quality clear epoxies over super glues. Super glues lack the strength and durability required for seamless repairs and can negatively interact with fillers and paints used in restoration.
Because we invest considerable effort into making repairs nearly invisible, we ensure our mends not only look excellent but also last indefinitely. For most ceramic, stone, and Kintsugi repairs, we use premium, non-yellowing, 5-minute clear epoxies (see link for the brand).
Super glues may be suitable for items that see little handling, have a short expected lifespan, and won’t receive additional restoration layers.
How To Repair Broken Pottery - Video
This lesson shows only the highlights and is not a DIY lesson
