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How to Repair Broken Pottery & Ceramic
Want to fix your broken pottery, ceramic, or china at home? This step-by-step guide shows you how using affordable tools and simple techniques.Not ready for DIY? We also offer professional restoration services, trusted by collectors, galleries, and museums. Explore our professional restoration services
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Pottery Repair Video Tutorial
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If you decide to do the repair yourself, this lesson will guide you step by step using commonly available tools and materials, saving you the cost of professional restoration.
Prefer expert help? We're happy to provide free estimate for your project. Before investing in a repair, you may want to assess the value of your ceramic or porcelain piece to help guide your decision.
For porous materials like terra cotta, stone, or plaster, repair steps differ slightly. You'll need to apply epoxy to both sides of the break and preheat surfaces to 100 to 140 degree F to improve bonding. Keep in mind: heating shortens epoxy working time, so proper alignment must be done twice as fast compared to porcelain or stoneware. Also, sanding porous materials requires different techniques than those described in the tutorial below.
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IMPORTANT: Ceramic restoration materials are not food-safe, nor are they resistant to liquids or heat above 190 degree F. Repaired items should never be used for cooking or serving food more...
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Mending |
What you will need:
1. Two-part 5 min PC Clear epoxy
2. Wooden stick or a pin-tool
3. Container with pvc pebbles or rice
4. Clay
5. Razor blade
6. Denatured or 91% Alcohol
7. Rag
8. Paper pad to mix Epoxy on
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To align broken pieces so gravity can hold them in place, fill a container slightly larger than your piece with plastic pebbles, rice, or sand. This creates a stable cradle that supports the pottery during curing, keeping everything properly positioned.
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Mending - Steps |
Before repairing, thoroughly clean the broken pieces with alcohol. If the item has been previously repaired, remove any old adhesive completely to ensure the new glue bonds properly. To keep the pieces stable during curing, fill a container slightly larger than your piece with plastic pebbles, rice, or sand. This will cradle and hold the pottery securely in place while the adhesive sets.
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Place the larger broken part in the PVC pebbles / resin pellets (rice or sand) so that gravity will hold the top piece in place. Verify fit before applying adhesive.
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Place even amounts of 5-minutes clear epoxy on a paper or cardboard pad
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Mix epoxy well with a pin tool, paper clip or a wooden stick.
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Apply epoxy mix to one side using a pintool or a wooden stick. Use only enough adhesive to cover the edge. Too little will leave gaps, resulting in a weak repair
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Place broken piece over the epoxy. Important: You have only about 60-90 seconds from start of epoxy mixing to complete the broken piece's permanent placement before the epoxy becomes gummy and not workable
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Quickly join the pieces together while applying light pressure to squeeze extra epoxy out. Use tweezers to apply small pieces. You only have about 60 to 90 seconds from start of epoxy mixing to placement before the epoxy becomes gummy and unworkable. Do not wipe off the squeezed-off epoxy to avoid smearing. Wait at least 20 minutes before proceeding with the next piece.
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If your item is broken into more than a couple of pieces, plan the attachment sequence to avoid being left with a final piece that cannot be easily attached or fit in. Numbering the pieces after a dry run is a good idea and will assist in the actual implementation. Let each joint cure before repairing the next one.
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Verify that pieces can stay steady during the cure period (let it cure at 75 degrees F or warmer)
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If pieces do not hold well using gravity, use clay for additional support
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Let the epoxy cure for 60 or more minutes before removing excess cured epoxy with a blade
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Bend blade for better access clearing unwanted cured epoxy. Warning - wear protective eyewear
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Clean surfaces with alcohol for proper filler bonding
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Related lesson (optional)
Visit this separate lesson for more details on keeping cemented pieces in position while the adhesive cures.
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Filling |
What you will need:
1. Two parts Epoxy filler PC-11
2. Dremel EZ lock 120 grit disc
3. 220 grit sand paper
3. 400 grit sand paper
4. Rag
5. Mini Spatula
6. Paper pad to mix Epoxy on
7. Denatured or 91% Alcohol
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Filling - Steps |
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Wipe all surfaces with a 91% alcohol to remove dust and hand oils prior to applying filler epoxy
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Mix even parts of PC-11 epoxy filler. For ease of application, work in room temperature of 75 degrees F or warmer. We place the PC-11 in a small heater and keep it at 100 degrees F.
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Apply thin layer of filler while pushing in to fill cracks and missing fragments
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Allow filler epoxy to cure for 12 hours or more at a temperature of 75 degrees F or warmer. In our studio, we sometimes place filled projects in a 140 degrees F oven overnight, but only when the specific filler and object can safely tolerate that temperature. Follow the manufacturer's curing instructions; do not assume heat curing is suitable for every epoxy or ceramic object.
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Placing under a lamp is another good option to optimize hardness for better sanding performance. Place at least 12" away from repair item to avoid overheating.
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Use Dremel EZ lock sanding disc 120 grit for sanding
Warning - wear protective eyewear
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Use low speed to avoid burn marks and apply light pressure
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If sanding by hand, start with 220 grit sandpaper and finish with 400 grit
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If upon inspection, missed cracks are found, repeat the steps above for the selected areas
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Clean with alcohol to prepare the surface for painting and cold glazing
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To hide the repair lines for a seamless repair, painting and application of 'Cold Glaze' are required and more details can be seen in our Painting Lesson
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