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Repairing Broken Pottery or China

How to Repair Broken Pottery & Ceramic

Want to fix your broken pottery, ceramic, or china at home? This step-by-step guide shows you how using affordable tools and simple techniques.Not ready for DIY? We also offer professional restoration services, trusted by collectors, galleries, and museums. Click here to learn more »

Pottery Repair Video Tutorial

If you decide to do the repair yourself, this lesson will guide you step by step using commonly available tools and materials, saving you the cost of professional restoration.

Prefer expert help? We’re happy to provide a free estimate for your project. Before investing in a repair, you may want to assess the value of your ceramic or porcelain piece to help guide your decision.

For porous materials like terra cotta, stone, or plaster, repair steps differ slightly. You’ll need to apply epoxy to both sides of the break and preheat surfaces to 100–140°F to improve bonding. Keep in mind: heating shortens epoxy working time, so proper alignment must be done twice as fast compared to porcelain or stoneware. Also, sanding porous materials requires different techniques than those described in the tutorial below.

IMPORTANT: Ceramic restoration materials are not food-safe, nor are they resistant to liquids or heat above 190°F. Repaired items should never be used for cooking or serving food more...

Mending

What you will need:
1. Two-part 5 min PC Clear epoxy
2. Wooden stick or a pin-tool

3. Container with pvc pebbles or rice
4. Clay
5. Razor blade
6. Denatured or 91% Alcohol
7. Rag
8. Paper pad to mix Epoxy on



What is needed to fix and repair broken pottery and ceramic?
To align broken pieces so gravity can hold them in place, fill a container slightly larger than your piece with plastic pebbles, rice, or sand. This creates a stable cradle that supports the pottery during curing, keeping everything properly positioned.



MENDING - Steps
Broken pottery in need of repair
Before repairing, thoroughly clean the broken pieces with alcohol. If the item has been previously repaired, remove any old adhesive completely to ensure the new glue bonds properly. To keep the pieces stable during curing, fill a container slightly larger than your piece with plastic pebbles, rice, or sand. This will cradle and hold the pottery securely in place while the adhesive sets.
Placing two broken pottery pieces together
Place the larger broken part in the PVC pebbles / resin pellets (rice or sand) so that gravity will hold the top piece in place. Verify fit before applying adhesive.

Use two part epoxy
Place even amounts of 5-minutes clear epoxy on a paper or cardboard pad

mixing the clear epoxy
Mix epoxy well with a pin tool, paper clip or a wooden stick.

Applying the epoxy onto one side
Apply epoxy mix to one side using a pintool or a wooden stick. Use only enough adhesive to cover the edge. Too little will leave gaps, resulting in a weak repair

Place broken piece on top of the first broken part
Place broken piece over the epoxy. Important: You have only about 60-90 seconds from start of epoxy mixing to complete the broken piece's permanent placement before the epoxy becomes gummy and not workable

Let the epoxy cure before cleaning excess cured glue
Quickly join the pieces together while applying light pressure to squeeze extra epoxy out. Use tweezers to apply small pieces. You only have about 60–90 seconds from start of epoxy mixing to placement before the epoxy becomes gummy and unworkable. Do not wipe off the squeezed-off epoxy to avoid smearing. Wait at least 20 minutes before proceeding with the next piece.

repeat adhesive application with the next broken part
If your item is broken into more than a couple of pieces, plan the attachment sequence to avoid being left with a final piece that cannot be easily attached or fit in. Numbering the pieces after a dry run is a good idea and will assist in the actual implementation. Let each joint cure before repairing the next one.

Wait for curing after verifying proper fit
Verify that pieces can stay steady during the cure period (let it cure at 75 degrees F or warmer)

To hold pieces together, clay can be used
If pieces do not hold well using gravity, use clay for additional support

Wait 60 or more minutes for proper cure
Let the epoxy cure for 60 or more minutes before removing excess cured epoxy with a blade

Bend blade - wear protective eyewear
Bend blade for better access clearing unwanted cured epoxy. Warning - wear protective eyewear

Remove excess glue
Scrape off excess epoxy

 before proceeding with filling cracks, clean with alcohol
Clean surfaces with alcohol for proper filler bonding


Keeping Cemented Pieces in Place While Curing

Visit this lesson to see more details of maintaining cemented pieces in position

Keeping Cemented Pieces in Place While Curing


Filling

What you will need:
1. Two parts Epoxy filler PC-11
2. Dremel EZ lock 120 grit disc
3. 220 grit sand paper
3. 400 grit sand paper
4. Rag
5. Mini Spatula

6. Paper pad to mix Epoxy on
7. Denatured or 91% Alcohol



what is needed to fill cracks and repair lines


Filling - Steps
clean with alcohol
Wipe all surfaces with a 91% alcohol to remove dust and hand oils prior to applying filler epoxy

mix even parts of PC-11 epoxy filler
Mix even parts of PC-11 epoxy filler. For ease of application, work in room temperature of 75 degrees F or warmer. We place the PC-11 in a small heater and keep it at 100 degrees F.

Apply epoxy filler
Apply thin layer of filler while pushing in to fill cracks and missing fragments

wait 10-15 hours at 75 degrees or more for proper curation
Allow filler epoxy to cure for 12 hours or more at a temperature of 75 degrees F or warmer. We place our filled projects in a 140 degrees F oven over night.

Can heat under a lamp
Placing under a lamp is another good option to optimize hardness for better sanding performance. Place at least 12" away from repair item to avoid overheating.

 sand excess epoxy PC-11
Use Dremel EZ lock sanding disc 120 grit for sanding
Warning - wear protective eyewear

Apply light pressure
Use low speed to avoid burn marks and apply light pressure

refine sanding
If sanding by hand, start with 220 grit sandpaper and finish with 400 grit

repeat the above on missed sections
If upon inspection, missed cracks are found, repeat the steps above for the selected areas

clean surface with alcohol before paining
Clean with alcohol to prepare the surface for painting and cold glazing


Painting broken china, pottery or ceramic tutorial
To hide the repair lines for a seamless repair, painting and application of 'Cold Glaze' are required and more details can be seen in our Painting Lesson



A Video Lesson Includes How to:

  • Remove old repair
  • Mend broken segments
  • Fill gaps
  • Sand filler
  • Paint and glaze

Lesson Covering Old Glue Removal, Cementing, Filling, Painting and Glazing Broken Ceramic, Pottery or China Vessels



More Details

Coosing your adhesivee

Different adhesives work best for ceramic repair depending on the type of ceramic and the repair needed. We generally recommend a clear, two-part epoxy with a 5-minute setting time for most repairs. However, if you need more time to align pieces precisely, a slower-setting epoxy may be a better choice.

Because a perfect fit is essential, avoid fast-curing adhesives like instant glues or quick-setting epoxies if you require extra working time.

We use various adhesives for different applications, but for this tutorial, we suggest widely available commercial brands. You can find our recommended options in the Where to Purchase Ceramic Repair Materials section.

Preparing the Surface

The most important step in ceramic repair is ensuring all pieces are clean. If the item has been repaired before, remove any old adhesive completely, see our How to Remove Old Adhesive lesson for guidance, to ensure proper bonding with the new glue.Before handling, consider wearing clean gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges. Then, thoroughly clean the pieces with alcohol to remove dirt and oils.

Applying the adhesive

Using a wooden stick, paper clip, or pin tool, apply glue to only one of the broken edges. Use just enough adhesive to cover the edge, too little can leave gaps, weakening the repair, while too much makes it harder to get a tight joint.Warming the ceramic pieces to 110–140°F thins the epoxy for a better fit but speeds up the curing time, so work quickly.

Carefully join the pieces, applying light pressure to squeeze out any excess glue.To keep the piece stable during curing, fill a container with plastic pebbles, rice, or sand to cradle it securely. If gravity alone won’t hold the alignment, use clay (as shown above) to support the pieces.Avoid shifting the pieces once joined, loose particles can ruin the repair. Any glue that seeps out can be removed later with a razor blade. Tweezers are helpful for positioning small fragments precisely.

Fixing an item with multiple breaks

If your pottery, ceramic, or porcelain is broken into several pieces, plan the order in which you’ll reattach them carefully. This helps avoid ending up with a final piece that’s difficult or impossible to fit. Do a dry run first, then number each piece to guide you during the repair.Make sure to let each joint fully cure before moving on to attach the next piece.

Filling in for missing pieces

There are many filler products available, but one reliable and widely accessible option is PC-11 filler. When choosing a filler, look for these key qualities:

  1. Exceptional adhesion to ceramic surfaces
  2. No shrinkage during curing
  3. Workability -can be drilled, sanded, and shaped
  4. Paintability for seamless finishing
  5. Water and oil resistance
  6. Stability across a wide temperature range without shrinking or expanding

We cure the filler epoxy at 140°F, which produces a very hard finish ideal for sanding and shaping.

Painting & Glazing Repaired Ceramic

If visible repair lines aren’t acceptable and you want a seamless finish, this step requires advanced skill. Matching colors and replicating the original artist’s style takes time and precision.We use high-quality acrylic paints, pigment powders, and colored hardeners mixed with special additives to ensure durability and strength. Finally, matching the glaze’s sheen and light reflection is crucial to closely mimic the original piece’s finish. For more details, see our Painting Theory Tutorial.



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